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DIY Similar to Kinky Kurly Knot Today Leave in?  

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Active Member
Joined: 3 months ago
Posts: 7
10/11/2018 6:00 pm  

Hi everyone!

I really need help creating a detangling/leave in hair product for me. Due to my weak immune system and allergies, I have struggled to find hair products I do not have an allergic reaction to. For the past year, I have been making my own hair products (slippery elm as my detangler and Okra Gel as my gel) but I am not satisfied with the results.

I have 3c/4a, low porosity and fine curls. The two products that have worked best for me as leave ins and detanglers are Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave In and Smoothing Lotion Curly Junkie. Both products have slippery elm, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, and Cetyl/cetearyl Alcohol ingredients in common. I would like to find a recipe to make out of those three ingredients primarily. I am hoping the slip will be as incredible as Kinky Curly Knot Today or Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion by Curly Junkie. My DIY slippery elm conditioner has good slip but I am finding I need even more slip. As well as I am not able to leave the slippery elm on my hair because it coats it. I need something that will be able to moisturize, absorb, and blend into my hair. Please let me know if you can help me out!

 

Thank you so much!


naomi and curlytea liked
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Admin
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 33
10/11/2018 7:55 pm  

Hi avaanstar. I think almost everyone (not me), at some point or another, has tried to dupe a Kinky Curly product. 😋 I've never used it before so IDK how it feels.

Often times in a lot of products it's not the main ingredients which cause those great benefits. Here's the list of ingredients for Kinky Curly Knot Today:
Organic mango extract, organic slippery elm, organic marshmallow root, organic lemongrass, cetyl alcohol, *behentrimonium methosulfate, citric acid, phenoxyethanol and natural fragrance

 

If the product is very slippery, they may by using a powdered version of some of these ingredients. I have the regular versions of slippery elm bark and marshmallow root and neither one offers the type of slip that guar gum, for example, offers when preparing it the normal way.

Here are the ingredients for the Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion:
Ingredients: Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Vegetable Glycerin, Slippery Elm Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance

 

In the Smoothing Lotion, I notice Cetearyl Alcohol is listed before BTMS. That usually means they added Cetearyl alcohol in a percentage higher than BTMS. Supposedly, Cetearyl alcohol is a good ingredient and you can buy it separately. It's one of the ingredients which makes up BTMS. I like BTMS-50 much better though.  Curl Junkie is also using propylene glycol (non-natural) which helps tremendously with smoothness. A natural version of propylene glycol is Naturesilk (1,3 propanediol). I use it all the time.

It's tough for me to give specific advice about either of those products because I've never used them. However, you certainly can create a product using BTMS, Cetyl/cetearyl Alcohol and Slippery Elm as the main ingredients.

If you're making a leave-in, it's best to use water or aloe vera juice at a high percentage. All conditioners have a high percentage of water. It's the thing that makes the hair malleable and adds moisture.

So, here's a sample recipe:

PHASE A
75% Slippery Elm tea
3% Humectant (Betaine, Honey, Glycerin, whatever you choose)
2% Caprylic Capric Triglycerides (helps to cut greasiness)

PHASE B
4% BTMS-50
2% Cetyl Alcohol
13% Oil, Butter, or Oil mix of choice

COOL DOWN
0.5-1% Preservative (follow the guidelines of your preservative)

Here, your oil phase is only 13% and everything is added together the traditional way.

 

# However, you may have oils that are heat-sensitive (like a high quality organic pumpkin seed oil). Or you may want a slightly more 'present' feel of oil on your hair. Here's a sample recipe for something like that using the same ingredients:

PHASE A
75% Slippery Elm tea
3% Humectant (Betaine, Honey, Glycerin, or whatever you choose)
2% Alkyl Esters (helps to make sure other ingredients absorb well)

PHASE B
4% BTMS-50
2% Cetyl Alcohol
3% Oil, Butter, or Oil mix of choice

COOL DOWN
10% Oil, Butter, or Oil mix of choice
0.5-1% Preservative (follow the guidelines of your preservative)

In this recipe, you'll add about 10% of your oil phase AFTER the emulsion has formed. You'd need to ask a chemist why it feels different on the hair versus the 1st recipe, but it does to me.

 

 

# If you notice that the mix is sitting on top of your hair for longer than you desire, or it's turning white while you use it, skip the Cetyl Alcohol completely. In which case, a sample recipe will look something like this:

PHASE A
75% Slippery Elm tea
3% Humectant (Betaine, Honey, Glycerin, or whatever you choose)

PHASE B
4% BTMS-50
7% Oil, Butter, or Oil mix of choice

COOL DOWN
10% Oil, Butter, or Oil mix of choice
0.5-1% Preservative (follow the guidelines of your preservative)

 

# If you want a lighter leave-in that you can apply more frequently, increase your water/tea percentage, decrease your oils, and add all of your oils during the COOL DOWN phase. For example:

PHASE A
85% Slippery Elm tea
4% Humectant (Betaine, Honey, Glycerin, or whatever you choose)

PHASE B
5% BTMS-50

COOL DOWN
5% Oils, butters, oil mix
0.5-1% Preservative (follow the guidelines of your preservative)

 

# SLIP: Slip is an elusive thing. lol! The best slip I've ever experienced was with guar gum. However, guar gum (the regular form) can leave flakes in the hair. Since you want to use all or mostly natural ingredients, I have no options to recommend which are easy to use that won't leave flakes in the hair. Xanthan gum is ok, but it can be "stringy".

# Sidenote: A great way to use your herbs is to infuse them into oils. However, in the came of slippery elm, I'm assuming you want some of that slight mucilage feeling in your product. So it may be better to make a tea with it then add that your recipe.

This post was modified 3 months ago 3 times by curlytea

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Active Member
Joined: 3 months ago
Posts: 7
14/11/2018 1:40 pm  

Hi Curly Tea,

Thank you so much for your help! I want to start making the product, I am wondering what equipment I will need to use. What type of weigher should I use? Can I use a food thermometer to measure the temperature of the food? Can I use mason jars or should I get beakers? Also what should I use to heat up the chemicals and extracts (where do i buy double boilers or should I just use a pot in the kitchen)?


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Active Member
Joined: 3 months ago
Posts: 7
14/11/2018 1:51 pm  

Also, I am wondering, if I do not want to use oils or butters in my products, can I just not use the ingredeint in the recipe and just skip it or do I then have to adjust the ratio of the rest of the ingredients? 

 

Example: 

PHASE A
85% Slippery Elm tea
4% Humectant (Betaine, Honey, Glycerin, or whatever you choose)

PHASE B
5% BTMS-50

COOL DOWN
5% Oils, butters, oil mix [COULD I OMIT THIS PART? OR DO I HAVE TO ADJUST REST OF RECIPE?]
0.5-1% Preservative (follow the guidelines of your preservative)

 

Thank you!


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