INCI: Emulsifying Wax NF

Polawax is a nonionic emulsifying wax.  It helps bind water and oil to form an emulsion (creams, lotions).

In my experience, I would never use Polawax at anything less than 6%.  Its not like BTMS.  Its more finicky than it should be, in my opinion, when it comes to making emulsions.

What I mean is that if you use 4% BTMS, you’ll at least get something to come together.  However, i haven’t gotten any emulsion to stay together when using 4% of Polawax even though it claims you can use it as low as 2%.  No. That has not been my experience no matter what kind of ingredients I’ve used.

TIP: Lotioncrafter will be discontinuing Polawax (Croda) because of Croda’s continued price increases on the product, they say.  Their new alternative to Polawax, as of this writing,  is “Lotioncrafter Emulsifying Wax NF”

Polawax comes in white pastilles and lasts a fairly long time.   Emulsions can stay stable in low ph (3) and high ph (13) emulsions.  Emulsions are creamy white.

Most people would tell you that you’d have to use an additional thickener with it in order to get the emulsion to thicken up.

I almost always use at least some percentage of thickener anyway, so I can’t tell how thick a product would be just using Polawax alone.

As with all emulsions, just make sure you get the oils+Polawax AND the water phase to the same temp in order to form the emulsion.

Make sure you keep it in a cool, dry place.  Storing it above 90°F could cause coagulation (pastilles could slightly melt in the bag and clump together).

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When adding HP Starch (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) to a finished emulsion, mix with a water-soluble liquid (like water) first. Make sure to document for record keeping purposes how much additional water you added to your finished emulsion. It will form a gel. Make sure the gel isn't too thick or too thin. Add it the emulsion directly and mix well. Mixing HP Starch with water or another water-soluble liquid will help prevent your final product from looking "starchy" and gross. lol
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