October 5, 2022


product formulation&recipe consultation, ingredient testing, how-to videos, instructions and other info that empowers you to create your own hair care and skincare products!

Structure XL

3 min read
INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Recommended Usage: Lotions & Creams: 3-8%

Structure XL is very, very, VEEERRYY nice to have around.   When checking for ingredients, I ran across the description for this product at wholesalesuppliesplus.  Its used to improve the body and enhance the viscosity of an emulsion.   It can also be added at any point in the formulating process.

Its supposed to have a “conditioning after feel”, but I can’t tell because when I formulate, I use other products (like BTMS and behenyl alcohol) that is for conditioning.

Its probably best known as a ‘Mr. Fixit’ for emulsions that could have used a little more emulsifier when you made them. Teehee.

It really helps with the stability of any emulsion.  Its so good that I just started to add it into the water phase just as an extra way of making sure the emulsion lasts as long as it possibly can.

Getting to the technical stuff, Structure XL is nonionic  and is compatible with a wide variety of other ingredients.  One of the best things to look for when formulating is to use products which won’t cause problems with other products.

TIP: I cannot stress enough how much LESS stress you’ll have if you choose to use products that act well with others instead of those finicky products which need all kinds of care in order to work.  Take my finicky sodium carbomer, for example. Lovely when used just with itself and water at room temp with little mixing.  However it won’t gel at all with low ph herbal infusions (lemon balm, hibiscus, etc) because it needs a specific PH range (6 and above…. trust me) when using other products in order to do what its supposed to do.

It disperses readily in cold water too, by the way. So if you want to add a little into the water phase as insurance that your emulsion will stay together, you can.  According to the specs, you can also add it to the oil phase.  However, I like it much better in the water phase.

One of the best ways to use it is by adding it to the finished emulsion.  Yes, you can add it right to the product after the emulsion has formed.

TIP: When I add Structure XL to a finished emulsion, I do so while its still warm and before I actually pour it into the container.

Structure XL is best for lotions and creams, by the way.  I’m not sure what type of buildup IF ANY it will have on the hair.  There’s also some sketchy suggestions that you can make a gel with Structure XL, but I haven’t tested it for that yet.

If anyone has used Structure XL to make a gel, please post your hints/instructions/recipes below.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.