Structure XL (aka UltraMaize) is very, very, VEEERRYY nice to have around, I tell you. A lot of what I’m writing will be duplicated in the ‘Ingredients’ section for this product.
When checking for ingredients, I ran across the description for this product at wholesalesuppliesplus. I hadn’t heard of it until then.
In some circles, Structure XL has a bad wrap for being a “filler” product. However, it is used to improve the body and enhance the viscosity of an emulsion.
It is a nonionic, naturally derived, starch based thickener. It’s known as a “pre-gelatinized sugar” that is swellable in cold water. Its INCI name is “Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate”.
What I liked most is that it can also be added at any point in the formulating process. That means you can put it into the water phase before heating, after heating, after the emulsion has formed or even the next day if you notice any type of separation.
You can call it a ‘Mr. Fix-it’ for emulsions that could have used a little more emulsifier when you made them. Teehee.
It’s supposed to have a “conditioning after feel”, but I can’t tell because when I formulate, I use other products (like BTMS and behenyl alcohol) which also add their super conditioning effects to my concoctions.
It really helps with the stability of any emulsion and is said to cut some of the greasy feel. Its so good that I just started to add it into the water phase just as an extra way of making sure the emulsion lasts as long as it possibly can.
Getting to the technical stuff, Structure XL is nonionic and is compatible with a wide variety of other ingredients. One of the best things to look for when formulating is to use products which won’t cause problems with other products.
TIP: I cannot stress enough how much LESS stress you’ll have if you choose to use products that act well with others instead of those finicky products which need all kinds of care in order to work.
According to the specs, you can also add it to the oil phase. However, I like it much better in the water phase.
TIP: Now when I add Structure XL to a finished emulsion, I do so while its still warm but before I actually pour it into the container.
Structure XL is best for lotions and creams, by the way. I’m not sure what type of buildup IF ANY it will have on the hair when used in a gel. Yes, there are some sketchy suggestions that you can make a gel with Structure XL, but I haven’t tested it for that yet.
If anyone has used Structure XL to make a gel, please post your hints/instructions/recipes below.
Wholesalesuppliesplus.com Recommended Usage:
Lotions & Creams: 3-8%