I don’t usually post about every ingredient haul I make, but I’m excited about this one because I’ve never tried to personally formate with these ingredients before now.
So let’s get right to it!
1. HairFix XH Maltodextrin
INCI: Maltodextrin / VP copolymer
HairFix XH Maltodextrin is a “naturally-derived” (buzzword) sugar-based, non-ionic polymer manufacturers use when they want to make hair gels and mousses with superior hold.
It’s used to make things THICK like how synthetic polymers make your mixes thick. Unlike carbomer though, it doesn’t need to be neutralized with TEA to adjust the pH. And it has an overall performance level equivalent to PVP, according to happi.com.
MakingCosmetics.com also says it’s compatible with some of my fav ingredients I normally use in my DIY mixes like Panthenol and glycerin.
Since it’s also compatible with ingredients like propylene glycol, I’m gonna assume it’s also compatible with my favorite natural alternative to petro-based glycols: NatureSilk.
You add it to the water phase when you’re making your DIY mixes. Usage rate is anywhere between 4% – 36%, although I can’t foresee myself using 36%!
The MOST important feature for me and any gel is to NOT flake on the hair. I haven’t been able to find complaints about bad flaking when formulating with this ingredient. But that could just be because not a lot of people have used it yet.
Note: The INCI name is Maltodextrin / VP copolymer. This is the same ingredient listed in SheaMoisture’s Curl Memory Leave-in Conditioner (CocoShea Biolipid Complex w/ Agave Nectar and Black Seed oil.) Almost sounds like something I would try to make. Teehee!
According to happi.com, it’s created in a more sustainable way than traditional synthetic polymers. Gels created with this ingredient are said to be equivalent in performance to synthetically-derived gels, according to happi.com.
More than 50% of this ingredient is derived from natural content, which makes it a go-to for companies (like SheaMoisture) who normally gravitate towards more natural-based ingredients.
According to online information, you can actually use HairFix XH Maltodextrin with carbomer, but I don’t know if you can use it with a pre-neutralized carbomer (like Sodium Carbomer).
Happi.com reports about scientific tests done by testing Maltodextrin/VP copolymer gels against traditional gels made with PVP or VP/ VA Copolymer.
According to the results, there were no detectable difference between the “on-hair performance properties” of Maltodextrin/VP copolymer and regular gels. In fact, the recommendation was that Maltodextrin/VP copolymer can be substituted for those other synthetic polymer ingredients.
So what the heck does all this mean?? It means that natural formulators may have found an ingredient that works just as well as traditional gel-making ingredients BUT that is also a little more natural and sustainable.
I’ll have to test whether this is an ingredient you add before heating or if you add it during the COOL DOWN phase by diluting it in water and then adding that water+HairFix mix into your final emulsion.
2. ICE Conditioner
INCI Name: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate
ICE Conditioner is a special emulsifier derived from Canola, Coconut and other veggie oils. What’s special about it is that it’s used to make “instant-cold-emulsions”. That means it can emulsify oil and water without heating for 20 minutes (or so they say) .
It is said to have superior “suspending and emulsification” properties. The creams for hair and skin are supposed to be soft and smooth.
Specifically for the hair, it’s said to have great detangling properties and helps to soften the hair. I’ll be the judge of that! LOL!
The usage rate is 5% – 10% at MakingCosmetics.com. But at Jeen.com, the usage rate is 3% – 7%. One recipe I found online at chemistrystore.com calls for 6% of it. So, 6% may be a good place to start.
It can be added to cold water. However, MakingCosmetics.com recommends using a stick blender if adding it to cold water. But if you like, ChemistryStore.com says it can be added to hot water (160 F), but NOT to use a stick blender if using hot water. So…..I guess I’ll find out what really works once I start experimenting!
The ICE Conditioner itself is made with cetyl alcohol, something you guys should be very familiar with. It’s an ingredient you’ve probably already used before.
It’s also made up of behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate. This ICE Conditioner mix is supposed to be “hydrophile/lipophile” balanced, which means water-loving and oil-loving properties are balanced.
NOTE: According to kissmyface.com, the INCI name matches ingredients found in some of the Kiss My Face Conditioners. It also matches ingredients found in Wondercurl’s Detoxifying Clay Cleanser, and ASDM Foamless Hair Cleanser and Conditioner
It’s called ICE Conditioner, but apparently it can be used to make lotions and serums as well. I shall see!
Anyway, this is Part 1. Because the writeups are not terribly short, I decided to break this haul up into parts.
Read part 2