In parts 1 and 2 [Read Part 1 | Read Part 2] of this ingredients haul, I told you about new ingredients (for me) like HairFix XH Maltodextrin, ICE Conditioner, Behentrimonium Chloride and Sorbitol. I’ll introduce you to a couple more new ingredients which will hopefully make it into the final versions of my DIY recipes I post here.
6. CreamMaker ANIO
INCI: Glyceryl oleate citrate, caprylic/capric triglyceride
CreamMaker ANIO is an anionic PEG-free emulsifier with the ability to emulsify oils and waters at room temperature. It can be used in regular hot-process cream recipes as well.
According to MakingCosmetics.com, it can be used for products designed for sensitive skin and has an HLB value of 13 (if you need to know).
It actually works too! When I first used it, I was skeptical because I’d never made cold-process (room temperature) emulsifications before testing this one out. I’ve posted one of the recipes I’ve used already: https://www.curlytea.com/recipefront/leave-ins/item/baobab-hair-milk-video.html
CreamMaker ANIO does not make thick creams by itself. You will have to figure out how to thicken the mix without heating if you want to use a purely room-temperature process to make your creams.
It’s great for hair milks — liquidy creams for super-easy distribution throughout the hair. It’s also recommended if you want to make sprayable lotions to absorb easily in the skin.
The recommended usage rate for CreamMaker ANIO is just 2% – 4% for oil-in-water creams.
If you’re using it in a hot-process emulsification (heating Phase A and Phase B separately), you’ll preferably add it to the oil phase.
CreamMaker ANIO is made up of Glyceryl Oleate Citrate which is a product of a reaction between Glyceryl Oleate and Citric Acid. It’s just one of many different glyceryl monoesters. It’s a “skin-conditioning agent” as well as an emulsifier.
CreamMaker ANIO can be used over a wide pH range from 4 – 9. So that means, in theory, you can use Aloe Vera Juice as part of your recipe without it separating (As of this writing, I haven’t tried that yet though).
It can be used to make creams, lotions, sprayable lotions, hair milks, and other products. A food-grade version of this ingredient is actually used in food (Dracorin GOC). It is also said to have a wider range of potential use that ingredients similar to it.
So, check it out and see how you like it. You can start off with a very simple liquid recipe like this by combining the following at room temp:
4% CreamMaker ANIO
4% humectant (like honey, glycerin, sorbitol, or Vegemoist)
See how you like it. Test it out on your skin.
Or make a simple room-temperature liquid conditioner like this:
2% behentrimonium chloride
4% CreamMaker ANIO
a few pinches of Guar Gum for slip
See how you like it. Test it out on your hair. Use it as a leave-in or rinse out conditioner.
If you don’t like it that way, test it in a regular DIY cream where you heat each phase separately.
7. CreamMaker FLUID
INCI: Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate
CreamMaker FLUID is a PEG-free nonionic emulsifier that can be used by itself to create an emulsion (cream, lotion, etc), even at room temperature (cold emulsification). It doesn’t contain a fatty alcohol.
Unlike it’s cousin, CreamMaker ANIO, it is approved by ECOCert, NPA, COSMOS and NaTrue for natural products (makingcosmetics.com). I purchased mine from makingcosmetics.com. But it’s available at at least one other supplier as well.
CreamMaker FLUID is also different in that theherbarie.com says it cannot be used with cationic ingredients. Cationic ingredients are some of my favorite things: BTMS, BTMS-50, behentrimonium chloride and other very effective hair conditioning ingredients.
For that reason, I think I’m going to limit the use of this ingredient to make skincare products or hair moisturizers instead of conditioners.
The usage rate is just 1.5% – 2.5%. That’s even less than the rate for CreamMaker ANIO. Anyway, theherbarie.com recommends using it at 2.5% if you want to make creams. But I’m guessing you’ll have to use a separate thickener to make a “cream” with this emulsifier.
CreamMaker FLUID is stable in a pH range from 5 – 9. So you probably wouldn’t want to use this in recipes calling for Aloe Vera Juice or astringent teas unless you’re also using something to keep the pH from drifting below 5 (The pH of Aloe Vera Juice is usually 4.5).
CreamMaker FLUID has what theherbarie.com states is a “lamellar liquid-crystalline structure” which is ideal for “active ingredients”. Active ingredients are things like salicylic acid, retinol, AHA, peptides, etc.
So CreamMaker FLUID is supposedly good for making facial care products, but as of this writing, I haven’t tested it yet. Also, CreamMaker FLUID has an HLB value of 11, for those who need that information.
Because CreamMaker FLUID is not compatible with cationic ingredients, you can use it with Xanthan Gum. Why? Remember how Xanthan Gum and BTMS hate each other’s guts? lol! That’s because BTMS is a cationic quaternary compound (so is behentrimonium chloride).
Thus, since you won’t be using quaternary compounds and CreamMaker FLUID in the same recipe, you CAN use Xanthan Gum to thicken the recipe if necessary.
That’s if you want it thicker. But you should be able to leave the DIY mix liquidy to make a sprayable lotion or an easily absorbing facial fluid.
CreamMaker FLUID is in liquid form to make it easy to use at room-temperature for cold-emulsions. MakingCosmetics.com says it leaves a “light skin feel”, which I guessing it means it won’t make waxy, draggy lotions/creams.
CreamMaker FLUID can also be used as part of your regular hot-process recipes where you heat the ingredients for 20-25 minutes.
The INCI of CreamMaker FLUID is sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate. Given this information, it looks like this ingredient is used to help create the moistness of the Philosophy Facial Cleansing Cloths.
According to online information, it’s also an ingredient in the following products:
Tukka Naturals Aqua du Lait Natural Conditioning Hair Lotion Spray Mist
Derma E Hydrating Facial Wipes with Hyaluronic Acid
Balance Me Congested Skin Serum
Botanic Organic Tangerine & Lemon Facial Cleansing Oil
The Body Deli Melon Peptide Creme Gel
SIDE NOTE: I also purchased a pH indicator roll for 0-13 so I can measure the pH of my DIY mixes to make sure they’re in the range I want, and a few pipettes for adding the preservative Optiphen and fragrance oils to my mixes.
So, those are all of the new ingredients I will be experimenting (and continuing to experiment) with. You can get ’em from MakingCosmetics.com.
By the way, I am not sponsored by MakingCosmetics.com. If you do buy an ingredient because you saw it here at curlytea.com, BLOW UP their social media (twitter | facebook | google + | youtube) or email, and let them know you heard about ’em at curlytea.com!
Aqua du Lait Hair Moisturizer Spritz
Tangerine & Lemon Facial Cleansing Oil
MELON PEPTIDE CREME GEL (anti-aging)